Issue 15: To get you through the worst of winter, three home-cooked comfort food recipes from three of the country’s best chefs.
Wondercade
Wondercade

EDITOR'S NOTE

WonderCade

Over the past week, Wondercade HQ has been submerged in several inches of dense, white amorphous fluff that is cold to the touch and melts when you touch it. It also changes colors when you pee on it. What is this magical matter?

Snow, yo. It’s snow. And it is currently everywhere, from Utah to Maine to I-95 in Virginia, where some folks were stuck in their cars for up to 30 hours last week. Someone should make a TV movie about a situation like that … oh wait

In my family, we have an exciting, original saying for this kind of situation: Stay inside.

Yup, put on your loungiest loungewear (or even one of those wearable blanket things), curl up with a good book, and take intermittent breaks to consult this, our very special Comfort Food Issue.

Below, you’ll find three recipes that are delicious and executable for experts and novices alike. (I clearly fall into the latter category: once, while in Williams Sonoma with my husband, he remarked, “nice pan!”; I looked around for an actor in a green costume surrounded by Lost Boys.) 

They come from names you might recognize: Kristen Kish (a Top Chef champion), David Rose (a staple on the Food Network and Good Morning America — not the Schitt’s Creek character played by Daniel Levy) and Josh Buckwald, an awesome up-and-coming chef in Los Angeles. 

We specifically asked them not to just forward us a recipe they have lying around for media requests, but instead to send a cherished meal they actually like to make at home, along with the story behind it.

Now put on an apron, and get cookin’.

Enjoying our tasty weekly emails? Tell a friend! 

WonderCade

ACT ONE

KRISTEN KISH'S BRAISED BABY POTATOES

Kristen Kish is a South Korea-born, Michigan-raised chef, writer and TV host who cut her teeth in Barbara Lynch’s Boston restaurant empire before competing on — and winning — Season 10 of Top Chef. She currently presides over her own restaurant, Arlo Grey, in Austin and co-hosts a new series called Fast Foodies on TruTV.


Growing up in Michigan — where Januarys are typically “hurt your face” cold — meant hunkering down inside and noshing on comfort food. In our household, that meant potatoes … and lots of them. 

Potatoes are sponges. Grounding and filling, they can pretty much take on any flavor you want them to, and I love finding new ways to cook them. Braising — cooking with fat and liquid to create steam in a sealed vessel — gives potatoes an ideal creamy texture and an optimal infusion of flavor. 

For this recipe, I use the tiny baby potatoes you can find sitting right next to their bigger siblings in the market, typically in a mesh bag and often multi-colored. They are perfect for this dish because each little potato cooks quickly and has its own skin to crisp up, keeping the ratio of crisp bits to creamy centers absolutely perfect. If you are vegetarian, swap out the pancetta for shiitake mushrooms or a bacon/sausage meat substitute, and water or simple vegetable stock for the chicken stock, and olive oil for the butter … it’ll deliver a different but equally delicious flavor profile.

This is a delicious and hearty side dish that can go with your favorite roasts, a store-bought rotisserie chicken (because we all need help sometimes), a root vegetable soup, a grilled cheese … basically whatever you want. Food has one rule — enjoy it! 

BRAISED BABY POTATOES WITH PANCETTA, COMTÉ, SAGE 

From Kristen Kish Cooking, Recipes and Techniques

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil
  • 4 ounces pancetta, cut into a small dice
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 pounds small new potatoes
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 fresh thyme sprigs
  • 8 fresh sage leaves
  • 2 cups vegetable stock, homemade or store-bought
  • 3 ounces watercress
  • 2 teaspoons white vinegar
  • 3 ounces Comté (a hard, mild and slightly sweet French cow's milk cheese), finely grated

DIRECTIONS

In a wide saucepan — you want the potatoes to lie in one layer — heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the butter and heat until it melts and begins to sizzle. Continue to fry the pancetta in the fat for 2 minutes.

Add the potatoes and, when they begin to brown on one side, roll them in the fat to brown as much of the outside as possible. Season with salt but be careful: potatoes need a fair amount of seasoning, but the pancetta is salty. Grind in some black pepper; I like a lot for this dish. Push the thyme and sage into the bottom of the pan in between the potatoes to brown and crisp these up, too. Once everything is beautiful and golden, add just enough vegetable stock to come halfway to three-fourths of the way up the potatoes. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes.

Remove the lid and allow the liquid to boil and evaporate until the fat is left and you hear a sizzling sound; this signals everything is re-crisping. Cook until crisp and golden, which could take 12 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, dress the watercress with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil and the vinegar; season with salt. 

To serve, spoon the potatoes onto a platter, sprinkle the cheese on top, and garnish with the watercress salad.

WonderCade

ACT TWO

DAVID ROSE'S SMOKED CHICKEN CHILI

David Rose is a chef and TV personality who competed on Season 13 of Food Network Star. He regularly appears on “Good Morning America” and “The Today Show” among a host of other gigs, including his role as the Executive Chef for Omaha Steaks and a brand ambassador for Nissan USA and Big Green Egg.


​​When it’s cold outside or you just want to eat something that warms your heart, stomach and soul, you can’t beat a piping-hot bowl of chili. A great chili is a comforting, loving embrace that grabs your appetite, sings it a lullaby and has you unbuckling your belt to make room.

Growing up in New Jersey, I’m no stranger to snowy, cold winter nights. As the youngest child of eight, and having mostly brothers, we all had bottomless stomachs and insatiable appetites. Mom whipped up many awesome chilis on frigid nights, and they would never, ever, EVER disappoint!  

This recipe can be executed on your kitchen stovetop, but utilizing a grill will definitely take it to the next level. What makes this particular chili really pop is the smoked chicken and blistered peppers. They add depth and range of flavor that just can’t be replicated inside of the house. Same goes for the smoked chicken thighs. But indoor cooks, don’t worry: the Mexican chili powder and poblano give it a nice smoky and satisfying flavor, and the sweet corn gives it a surprisingly sweet pop and crunch that really sets it off, and is very welcome at this chili party. 

SMOKED CHICKEN CHILI

From EGGin’: David Rose Cooks on the Big Green Egg

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

INGREDIENTS

Grill Prep

  • 1 cup apple wood chips, soaked for 1 hour in 2 cups water

Chicken and Brine

  • 3 pounds skinless chicken thighs
  • 4 cups water
  • 1⁄4 cup salt
  • 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar

Chili

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large yellow onion, small diced
  • 2 green onions, green and white parts minced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and small diced
  • 2 ears sweet yellow corn, shucked, kernels cut
  • 1 poblano pepper, charred and peeled, small diced
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 2 tablespoons Mexican chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
  • 1 teaspoon granulated onion
  • 3 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 (12-ounce) can IPA beer
  • 40 ounces chicken broth
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 
  • 2 (15.5-ounce) cans cannellini beans

Toppings

  • 1⁄2 cup minced white onion
  • 1⁄2 cup minced green onions, only green parts 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
  • 10 ounces sour cream

DIRECTIONS

Rinse and pat dry the chicken thighs, then place them in a large resealable plastic bag or plastic container. To make the brine, place all of the ingredients in a large pan on the stovetop and whisk well until incorporated. Bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Pour the cooled brine over the thighs and seal the bag or container tightly, removing any air. Brine overnight in the fridge, or for at least 4 hours.

Prepare your grill (I love the EGG, of course) to cook indirectly at 375°F. Drain the wood chips and place them over your hot coals. Remove the chicken thighs from the brine, rinse and pat dry. Grill the chicken thighs for about 15 minutes per side, or until cooked through and golden brown. Remove them from the grill. Once they’re cool enough to handle, thinly slice or shred the chicken and set aside. For indoor cooking, utilize an indoor griddle or cast iron grill. 

To make the chili, place a large cast iron Dutch oven on the grill or stovetop (a ceramic or cast aluminum Dutch oven will also work inside the house) and add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, sauté the yellow and green onions along with the garlic and pepper for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Then add the corn kernels and poblano pepper and sauté for an additional 3 minutes. Add all of the dry seasonings and sauté for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and continue sautéing for an additional 2 minutes. Add the beer and cook until reduced by half in volume, 4 to 5 minutes.

Stir in the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add the chicken, Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover the dutch oven with lid, and continue to cook for 10 minutes; if on a stovetop lower from high heat to a simmer. Add the beans and continue to cook for another 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top each serving as desired with the white onion, green onions, cheese, and sour cream.  

WonderCade
WonderCade
Wondercade
We know what you’re thinking. A boxed wine?

Well, think again.

Open your mind (and mouth) to Game Box Wines, a 100% California-grown, critically adored collection of four distinctive varietals: Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Red Blend.

Game Box is mindfully packaged with an eye on sustainability (from the recyclable packaging to the 3- to 4-week shelf life once opened) and a soul chock full of whimsy. Each box — 3 liters, or the equivalent of 4 bottles (that oh-so-conventional packaging medium) — is covered in riddles, mazes, word jumbles, geometric puzzles, rebuses and optical illusions. Note, from experience: None of them are made easier after consuming a glass or two. But all make for a memorable game night.

Learn More
WonderCade

ACT THREE

JOSH BUCKWALD'S CLASSIC BOLOGNESE

Chef Josh Buckwald helms the culinary program at Employees Only, a cocktail bar in West Hollywood that is the only establishment to have appeared in all 12 editions of the World's 50 Best Bars. Previously the pasta chef at Downtown LA’s Rossoblu, Buckwald also launched a pasta-only delivery service that has since expanded to Employees Only, Orso Pasta, in 2020.


I'm going to confess something that brings me no joy as a California-based chef. Please keep this to yourself: my absolute favorite time of year to cook is when it is cold, grey and dark. So basically January (unless you're in California). 

I love a summertime barbeque and ripe, juicy tomatoes as much as the next guy, but to me, that kind of cooking is more about the sunshine and the fresh air than the food and the emotions that come from cooking and sharing with people you love. Winters are hard! Comfort isn't guaranteed, and in a time of year where the earth is actively rejecting us, the best recipes persevere and bring light, warmth and love into our homes.

I didn't invent Bolognese sauce, but this recipe has become as much a part of me as anything else in my repertoire. It's been modified again and again, and over many winters it has consistently brought steamy warmth, cozy smell, and little red stains to almost everyone in my life. I hope it does the same for you.

Cooking nerdiness footnote: Bolognese sauce is all about umami — that savory, meaty earthiness that we internalize as comfort and warmth. Traditionally when we think umami, we think beef, and that’s in here. But there are other, more subtle sources of umami as well: porcini mushrooms, pancetta … at the restaurant, we even throw in leftover parmesan rinds and let them steep in the sauce like tea. This sauce gives any chef an opportunity to get creative. If you want to add a little bit of nori, for example, and really make this sauce your own, that’s cool with me! Happy cooking.

CLASSIC BOLOGNESE SAUCE

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 pounds ground pork shoulder
  • 1 pound ground beef chuck
  • 4 ounces pancetta, chopped
  • 1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes
  • 1.5 yellow onions, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 3 stalks celery, finely chopped
  • 4 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, rehydrated and minced
  • ¼ whole nutmeg, grated
  • 1 tablespoon thyme, finely chopped
  • 5 tablespoons rosemary, finely chopped
  • 3 tablespoons butter 
  • 2.5 cups white wine (Sauvignon Blanc)
  • 1 cup red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon)
  • ½ cup milk

DIRECTIONS

Rehydrate the dried porcini mushrooms in warm water for 20 minutes until soft. Squeeze out the mushrooms and reserve all of the mushroom liquid, as well as the water they’ve been soaking in. Finely chop the mushrooms and set aside.

Pour the tomatoes and their juices into a bowl and crush them roughly with your hands. Set aside.

In a large pot, add the butter and pancetta over low heat. Render out the pancetta fat until it starts to crisp and brown slightly.

Add the chopped mushrooms, onions, celery, and carrots, as well as the thyme and rosemary. Add a pinch of salt and turn the heat up to medium, moving everything around occasionally to prevent scorching. When the vegetables are soft and have browned slightly, push them all to one side and add the pork and beef.

Once the beef and pork are browned, mix everything together and add both the red and white wine. Cook for 10-15 minutes to remove the alcohol, then add the crushed tomatoes and reserved mushroom liquid. Reduce the heat to medium/low and simmer until thick and glossy, about 1 hour.

Add the milk and cook for another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the grated nutmeg. Add salt to taste. Serve over al dente pasta of your choosing. I like a wide, flat noodle like fettuccine or tagliatelle.

WonderCade
WonderCade

If you’ve ever seen an episode of Top Chef, you’ve probably heard the French phrase mise en place thrown around by the judges. It translates to “putting in place,” and it refers to having your ingredients measured, prepped and fully at your disposal when you need them. It’s a crucial step for everyone — from home cooks to party hosts to professional chefs — so it’s imperative that you have all the right tools for the job at hand. These are some upgraded, affordable staples that’ll make your life a whole lot easier. 

The Chef’s Knife 

The chef’s knife is the most important tool in your whole kitchen, and there’s no better bang-for-your-buck option than this one from Misen. At just $75, it’s plenty sharp, it feels substantial in the hand, and it’s extraordinarily durable — we’ve had it in our own kitchen for years, and let’s just say it’s opened its fair share of 28oz cans of tomatoes and is no worse for wear. For anyone who’s only ever had cheap knives or for the enthusiast who appreciates good design and is always happy to welcome another knife to the block, Misen’s the way to go. 

 

The Cutting Board

If you’re going to become the type of person who obsesses over your knives, it only stands to reason that you’d then start obsessing over your cutting boards, too. After all, it’s the surface your precious blades are coming into contact with most often, so you’ll want to make sure it’s not doing any harm in the process. We recommend sticking with wood. You can easily drop hundreds of dollars on one, but you’ll do just fine with this solid maple John Boos option – you’ll probably recognize the Boos logo from all your favorite cooking shows as well. (If you want some plastic ones on hand for poultry and other quick jobs, you can’t go wrong with this set from Sur La Table’s house brand.) 

 

The Mandoline 

Do you need a mandoline? No, you probably don’t need one. But you want one. Simply, it makes your cooking life considerably easier, and opens you up to an endless list of possibilities, at the very top of which will always be waffle-cut potatoes for frying. We’re big fans of OXO products around here, and their V Slicer is our best-performing affordable mandoline. 

 

The Juicer

Winter is upon us, and thus so is a dizzying array of seasonal citrus fruit just begging to be used for parts. (Take that, scurvy!) Got your zester? Good, because you’ll need that year ‘round. But here in the dark, cold days of winter, allow us to advocate for a juicer. Cuisinart’s Pulp Control juicer ensures you’re getting every last drop from your lemons, limes, grapefruits and oranges. If you’re looking for something a little more old-fashioned, don’t underestimate the humble reamer.

WonderCade

LAST CALL

In last week’s issue we presented the following riddle:

Each of the below four words can be turned into a compound by adding another word before or after it. The added words have a common theme, and form a set.

LADY, GUESSING, WHEEL, NURSING

Did you hit a home run and get the answer, or did you strike out? Here’s the reveal….

First LADY. Second GUESSING. Third WHEEL. NURSING home. The common theme is the bases of a baseball diamond! Thanks to our friends at Apocute who pitched in and supplied us with the brainteaser. And to the dozens of you who hit us up with the correct answer. (Remember, you can always email us here. And we sincerely value the feedback.) On to this week’s puzzle…

Zuzu has an unusual system for rating recipes. Can you figure it out?

How many stars would Zuzu give "Jalapeño Pepper Hushpuppies"?

WonderCade
Wondercade

If you make a purchase via the links in this email, Wondercade may earn a share of the profits. It's a win-win. Thank you in advance.

Notable non-cook Cooks: Captain James Cook; Tim Cook; Cook’s Illustrated; Peter Cook (the British one); Alistair Cooke (the other British one); Dane Cook; Rachael Leigh Cook; The Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover.